Why I Stay Near Tokyo Station; Genji Kyoto
These are my personal picks for great places to stay in Tokyo and Kyoto
Tokyo Station Marunouchi side. Chris Rowthorn photo.
I’ve stayed all over Tokyo, but these days I almost always stay in the Tokyo Station area. This holds true whether I’m traveling alone for work or traveling with my family for pleasure. Here’s why:
Easy Access to Transport
It doesn’t take a genius to figure out that Tokyo Station is the most useful transport hub in the city. If you want easy access to the airports, the rest of Tokyo, and the shinkansen to Kyoto, Kanazawa, and beyond, then the Tokyo Station area is the place to stay.
Tokyo Station Yaesu side. Chris Rowthorn photo.
Great and Approachable Dining Options
Tsujita Ramen Nihombashi Yaesu branch. Chris Rowthorn photo.
You can eat better in and around Tokyo Station than in most cities in the world. There are at least four dining areas in the station itself (including the famous Tokyo Ramen Street), and nearby you’ll find dozens more dining areas and food courts. Two of my favorites are the Shin-Marunouchi Building food floors (just across from the Marunouchi side of the station) and the Yaechika food and shopping center on the B1 floor under the Yaesu side of the station.
Yaechika dining area. Chris Rowthorn photo.
If you had to eat all your meals in just one dining area in all of Tokyo, I’d say go to Yaechika: you’ll be spoiled for choice, and all of it is good. Here are some of my favorite restaurants in Yaechika:
Sushiro: great family sushi
Sushi plates at Sushiro Yaechika. Chris Rowthorn photo.
Tsukiji Sushiko: excellent midrange sushi
Ama-ebi, salmon and o-toro sushi at Tsukiji Sushiko. Chris Rowthorn photo.
La Cave de Oyster: superb oysters, both raw and cooked
Oysters with business cards at Le Cave de Oyster. Chris Rowthorn photo.
Excellent Shopping
There’s great shopping in Tokyo Station itself, including Tokyo Character Street and Daimaru Department Store (check out the B1 food floor—it’s the perfect place to pick up food for a long train ride). But the real shopping highlights are in Ginza, which is an easy walk from the station (5 or 10 minutes to most places). Here you’ll find huge branches of some of Japan’s best shops: Uniqlo, Loft, Montbell, Mitsukoshi, and Wako. In addition, you’ll find the amazing Itoya stationery store, which is arguably the best on earth. And for electronics and cameras, there’s a huge branch of Bic Camera in Yurakucho, only a 5-minute walk from the station.
All the colors of paper on sale at Itoya. Chris Rowthorn photo.
Two Great Tokyo Station Area Hotels
Ryumeikan Tokyo: This is my go-to hotel in Tokyo. A colleague at the Japan Times told me about the place many years ago and I’ve gone back again and again. My family loves the healthy breakfast they serve, and I love the reasonable rates and amazing convenience: it’s a 1-minute walk to Tokyo Station.
Guest room at Ryumeikan Tokyo.
Tokyo Station Hotel: This old-school and elegant luxury hotel is located inside the Tokyo Station building itself. The rooms are spacious and well-appointed, and the concierges are famous for being able to get you into some of Tokyo’s best restaurants.
Guest room at The Tokyo Station Hotel.
Genji Kyoto: The Best Boutique Hotel in Kyoto
Now, over to Kyoto. I’ve stayed at Genji Kyoto twice and I love it. It’s pretty much the definition of a boutique hotel: intimate, with just 19 rooms, each designed in updated Japanese style and adorned with original artwork. Some rooms have balconies overlooking the Kamo-gawa River, and if yours doesn’t, you can head up to the beautiful rooftop garden to enjoy the view.
My room at the Genji Kyoto. Chris Rowthorn photo.
The friendly young staff is very knowledgeable and can give great restaurant advice—and then call to reserve for you (an increasingly important service in crowded Kyoto). One thing I love about the Genji is their wonderful custom-made neighborhood map. The hotel is within easy walking distance of both downtown and Kyoto Station.
The Gojo-Kawaramachi area was a little raffish when I moved to Kyoto years ago, but now it’s becoming fashionable—it sort of feels like a cool part of Brooklyn before it became absurdly overpriced. Just outside the door of the Genji you’ll find all sorts of interesting restaurants, cafes, and bars. It’s excellent for evening strolls.
Japanese-style breakfast at Genji Kyoto. Chris Rowthorn photo.
The breakfasts are a real treat at the Genji: You can choose between Japanese-style and Western-style. I recommend trying the Japanese breakfast at least once — it’s extremely healthy and so good that you might wish you could order it for lunch or dinner as well.
The online reviews are nearly perfect, and once you’ve checked those, look at the rates: it just doesn’t make sense how such a perfect little hotel costs no more than a standard business hotel. But who’s complaining? Just book early and you’ll be glad you did.
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