Kyoto Cherry Blossom Secrets

The blossoms are only a week away now

It’s been a warm spring in Kyoto and the buds on the cherry trees are ready to burst open. And right on time, the tourists are back and Japan is preparing for its first normal cherry blossom season since the spring of 2019. If you’re lucky enough to be in Kyoto this season, here are some tips to help you make the most of it.

Crowded but worth it

Crowds are an inevitable part of every cherry blossom season in Kyoto. You can avoid them if you want, and I’ll explain how to do that later on, but sometimes you shouldn’t avoid the crowds.

Shimbashi

Shimbashi is a neighborhood on the north side of Gion, along the Shirakawa Canal. To get there, start at the northeast corner of Shijo-Karasuma intersection (at Gion-Shijo Keihan Station). Walk north on Karasuma for about 100 meters and look for the cherry-lined pedestrian lane pictured above (this is Shirakawa Street). As you can see, this place becomes a sakura tunnel in cherry blossom season. Then, cross Yamato-oji Street and continue up Shirakawa. You’ll find yourself in the most picturesque street in Kyoto, which is lined with cherry trees. They used to illuminate them in the evenings, but it got too crowded. Still, it’s lovely in the evening.

Maruyama-koen Park

Evening at Maruyama, picture by Chi

Maruyama is the first place I experienced hanami (a cherry blossom viewing party), way back in the spring of 1992. It dispelled my image of the Japanese as a serious and sober people forever. On a warm evening with the cherries at mankai (full bloom) this place can really be jamming. I suggest visiting Maruyama in the evening, as that’s when the hanami parties really get going. If you’re lucky, you’ll be invited to join a merry crew on a blue tarp at the base of a beautiful tree. Or, you can just grab some sake or beer and make your own party wherever you want.

Kiyomizu-dera Temple

Kiyomizu sunset, picture by Patrick Vierthaler

There are some beautiful cherry trees scattered around Kiyomizu, and they make for classic photographs with the vermillion pagoda and gates in the background. The place will be mobbed in cherry blossom season, so go early or late in the afternoon. Or, better yet, consider going during the evening light up when the entire place seems otherworldly.

Lesser known spots

Haradani-en Garden

Almost no tourists visit Haradani-en – and I hadn’t made it there until just a few years ago. As you can see from the picture above (and at the start of this newsletter), during cherry blossom season, it becomes a maze of blossoms - not just cherries, but yuki yanagi (snow willows), azaleas and more. To get there, take the free shuttle bus that runs from in front of Shikichi-jinja Shrine (known to locals as “Wara-tenjin”). Wara-tenjin is on Nishioji-dori, about 10 minutes’ walk south of Kinkaku-ji Temple. The free shuttle runs frequently in both directions during cherry blossom season (late March to early April).

Kyoto Gyoen (Imperial Palace Park)

The north end of the Kyoto Gyoen (Imperial Palace Park) is my go-to spot when I want to see the cherries without getting jostled by crowds. Sure, plenty of people show up, but there’s enough space to absorb a multitude without feeling crowded. The enormous shidare-zakura (weeping cherry trees) here are among the most spectacular cherry trees in all the city. There’s a great playground just west of these trees, so if your kids get board, they can play there while you enjoy the blossoms.

Kyoto Botanical Gardens

The Kyoto Botanical Gardens are great any time of year, but they really come into their own during cherry blossom season. This is a brilliant place for a hanami picnic and you can usually find a tree with space under it, especially if you go early in the day.

Kiyamachi Street

Kiyamachi, picture by Lingling

Okay, Kiyamachi is hardly a secret. I mean, it runs through the busiest entertainment district in the city, but few people think of it as a cherry blossom destination. However, as you can see above, it beautiful with the cherries in bloom, particularly in the evening. The section between Sanjo and Shijo is busy, but the section between Oike and Nijo is usually quiet, as is the section south of Shijo. It’s perfect for a cherry blossom stroll and you can finish on Shijo and then walk over to Shimbashi (see above).

Kyoto cherry blossom tips and tricks

Go early, late or at night: For daytime cherry blossom viewing at popular spots, go early or late in the day. And, don’t forget after dark. The Path of Philosophy is a magical walk at night when the cherries are in bloom.

Cherries are everywhere: Don’t just visit famous spots. Most temples, shrines and parks have a few cherry trees scattered about. Sometimes, I’d rather enjoy one small tree in a quiet temple than a magnificent tree with crowds jostling me.

Don’t fixate on the cherries: The cherry blossom are great, but there’s a lot more to Japan than cherries. If you miss the peak of blossoms or miss the blossoms entirely, you can still have a great time in Japan. It’s better to consider the cherries a bonus, rather than the main reason for your trip.

The pink river

If you’ve missed the peak of cherries, there’s still a delight waiting for you in Kyoto. About two weeks past the peak of cherries, usually sometime in mid-April, the petals start to fall in clouds that can resemble a pink blizzard. The cherry trees that line the Path of Philosophy drop most of their leaves into the canal along which it runs. These are carried north and then slightly west, where there’s a weir that stops them. This is just behind the koban (small police station) about 100 meters east of the Shirakawa-Imadegawa intersection. When the conditions are right the entire surface of the river becomes a carpet of pink cherry petals. As if that weren’t enough, a duck might swim through the petals, leaving a contrail of dark water, and you may even spot a brightly colored koi swimming through the dark waters beneath.